Finto and folar cakes are part of the Easter delicacies in the Alentejo, and in the municipality of Elvas (Portalegre) they are not only produced in the usual round format, but also “come to life” like chickens, lizards or dolls.
Gumercindo Rosado, 74, is one of the owners of a bakery in the rural parish of Terruguem and this Thursday reminded Lusa that his company has been producing this type of cake, a type of sweet bread, “for at least 56 years.” years.”
In the bakery that was already owned by his father, Gumersindo Rosado produces finto cake every Thursday, ramping up production for Easter, when there are also orders for these cakes in the shape of dolls, chickens or lizards.
“In these different formats, we only make them to order, mainly for children. And this Easter time, we make, in addition to the finto cake, folar with an egg inside a cookie,” he said. .
Stating that he does not know the origins of this decades-old tradition, Gumersindo stressed that cakes or pastries with a normal round shape are still the most popular among customers.
The same opinion was shared with Lusa by Ermelinda Demetrio, who for nine years owned a bakery in the rural parish of Barbacena, also in the municipality of Elvas, after owning butcher shops and supermarkets.
The businesswoman repeated, like her colleague from Terrugem, that she produces fake cakes or folars in the form of dolls, lizards or chickens only to order.
“It’s a tradition. When we came here to the bakery, it was already being baked, it was already a deeply rooted tradition,” he added.
However, he admitted that producing this type of cake in other formats is “not very common” “because it’s a lot of work” and purchasing power is currently “not helping”.
“The regular format sells more, other formats sell less because they are more aimed at children,” he emphasized.
Ermelinda Demetrio, who currently produces “about 100 cakes” in these “non-standard” formats, also sells them to some commercial enterprises in the region, as is the case with Maria do Seu Cordeiro, a shop owner in Vila Boim. , also in the municipality of Elvas.
In a conversation with Lusa, the merchant confirmed that she was buying this type of cake to sell because, since childhood, she had watched lizards being cooked in the public ovens of this rural parish.
“This Easter season I sell 40 to 50 cakes in this format,” he said.
The cakes, shaped like chicks, dolls or lizards, are then decorated with various elements such as carnival or gift ribbons and black-eyed polka dots to form the eyes. The almond is used to create the mouth, and the egg is used to form the faces of the dolls.
Although the characteristics of each of the figurines may differ from one bakery to another, Maria do Seu Cordeiro also explained that the egg is also used to form the bellies of lizards and chickens.
These cakes, inspired by tradition and “born” from the imagination of the respective bakers, “are intended mainly for children,” confirmed Maria do Ceu, adding, however, that “adults also like them.”